Tires Buyer's Guide

Choosing the right tire is just as important as choosing the right wheels. Tires are the only component of your vehicle that makes contact with the road, supporting the vehicle's weight and transmitting all steering, braking, and acceleration forces. Different tires are optimized for different conditions/use cases. The right set of tires can improve grip, ride comfort, and braking, making you feel more connected to the road and your vehicle. This guide walks you through everything you need to know to pick the right set for your vehicle and application. Whether it's performance in the rain/snow, spirited track days, or just casual driving, the perfect set of tires can be found below.

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Why Change Your Tires?

• Wear: Tires degrade with use. Regularly changing your tires is critical to ensuring your tires maintain adequate grip. The general recommendation is to replace tires when tread reaches 4/32 of an inch (~3mm) or when the tires are 6 years from their production date. You can find the production date printed on the tire sidewall.

• New Wheels: Changing your wheel diameter or width will require new tires to fit your new wheels.

• Seasonal Changes: A summer tire in winter conditions significantly hinders tire grip. Your tire should match the driving conditions.

• Performance: A tire suited for daily commuting isn't the right choice for track days, and vice versa. If you're taking your car to the track or off-road, make sure your tires match your application.

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Step 1: Identify Your Tire Categories

Before even looking at tire specs, first identify the intended use case for your new tires. Different tires are optimized for different temperatures and surfaces. This prevents the common mistake of over-buying a track tire for a daily driver or under-buying a standard tire for a high-performance application.

• All-Season: Designed to provide a compromise of performance across a wide range of conditions, including light snow. They offer longer tread life but lack the ultimate grip of a dedicated summer or winter tire.

• Summer / Ultra-High Performance (UHP): Optimized for maximum grip in dry and wet conditions above 7°C (45°F). These use softer compounds that provide superior traction, but wear faster and become unsafe in freezing temperatures.

• Winter / Snow: Engineered with high-silica compounds that remain flexible in extreme cold and feature sipes (small slits in the tread blocks) to bite into ice and snow.

• All-Terrain (AT) / Mud-Terrain (MT): Focused on off-road durability and self-cleaning tread blocks for trucks and SUVs, often at the expense of road noise and fuel efficiency.

• Track / Competition: Deliver superior cornering and grip with stiffer sidewalls. They have reduced tread thickness, shorter longevity, and are not designed for wet or cold use.

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Learning to Read a Tire Sidewall

The image above illustrates where to find critical details about your tire. Keep reading to learn more.

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Step 2: Tire Size

Tire size is written as a three part code. For example, 205/65R16, as can be seen above.

• Section Width (205): The width of the tire in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall. Wider tires provide a larger contact patch, improving grip and stability. Many wheels provide information on maximum and minimum tire width for proper seating.

• Aspect Ratio (65): The ratio of sidewall height to section width, expressed as a percentage. The larger the aspect ratio, the taller the sidewall. Note that the sidewall height depends on the width of the tire. A 65 aspect ratio on a 205-wide tire will not be the same height as a 65 aspect ratio on a 245-wide tire.

• Lower ratio → stiffer sidewall, better handling, harsher ride

• Higher ratio → more comfort, more sidewall flex

• Rim Diameter (16): The diameter of the wheel the tire is designed to mount on, in inches. This must match your wheel diameter exactly. When changing wheel diameters (e.g., moving from a 16" to a 17" wheel), you must adjust the aspect ratio accordingly to maintain a constant rolling diameter.

Start by identifying your current tire size, found on the sidewall or in your vehicle's factory specs. Use this as your baseline. When changing tire size, you must:

• Match your wheel diameter exactly

• Ensure your wheel supports the width of the new tire

• Maintain an overall rolling diameter plus or minus 3% of your original. The smaller the difference the better. Deviating beyond this causes speedometer and odometer inaccuracies and can create clearance issues within the wheel well.

Use the calculator below to determine your change in rolling diameter.

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Step 3: Fitment & Aesthetics

Before finalizing your tire size, consider your fitment goals. For a deeper look at how wheels, offset, and suspension interact, refer to our wheel guide and coilover guide.

Flush: This is the goal standard for tire fitment. Achieved by selecting a tire width that matches the wheel width and calculating offset so that sidewall aligns with the fender edge.

• Caution - Fender Contact: With the tire directly under the fender lip, hard suspension compression can cause the tire to contact the fender. This is particularly relevant for lowered cars.

Tucked: Achieved by selecting a tire width slightly narrower than wheel width, combined with a more positive wheel offset. This allows the wheel and tire to sit deep inside the fender well.

• Caution - Suspension Interference: Moving the tire deeper into the wheel well increases the risk of the tire inner sidewall contacting the strut, spring perch, or control arms.

• Caution - Full-Lock Rubbing: You may have clearance while driving straight, but the tire may contact the inner wheel liner at full steering lock.

Poke: Achieved by choosing wider tires and aggressive negative offset. The tire extends beyond the fender.

• Caution - Bearing Wear: More negative offsets create a larger lever arm on the wheel bearing, reducing its lifespan.

• Caution - Scrub Radius: Moving the tire centerpoint away from the steering axis changes scrub radius, which can make steering feel twitchy over bumps and reduce stability under heavy braking.

Stance: Achieved by undersizing tire width relative to a wide wheel (tire stretching), lowering the car, and using heavy negative camber to tuck the wheel/tire assembly under the fender. Stance is more common for show cars rather than street cars due to reduced drivability.

• Caution - Reduced Contact Patch: Heavy negative camber means you are riding on only the inner inch or two of the tread. This drastically increases braking distances and reduces wet-weather traction, as the tire's "footprint" is only a fraction of what the manufacturer intended.

• Caution - De-beading: Stretching a tire pulls the sidewall at an unnatural angle. This reduces the tension holding the tire to the rim, greatly increasing the risk of the tire popping off the wheel (de-beading) during cornering or when hitting a pothole.